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From neglected to cultivated. From abandoned, to cherished. We all at times, can let our gardens slip into a state of disrepair. The long winter..

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Landscape gardeners dublin south | Paving and Masonry | Garden design

June | Gardening advice and tips

Q. Dee D. (\\no-location\\)

"My entire flowerbed is covered by Ground Elder. Help!"?

Use a systemic weed killer, NOT A SPRAY. Something like glyphosate pads or gel (Round-Up) will do the trick. Rub it on the top and bottom of the leaf on a dry day. The leaves will draw in back into the plant and it will spread until dead. It takes time, but is the best way as it will be killed at the roots.

Top tip: There is a 'homemade' herbicide recipe that can work well on smaller weeds in your garden / patio / paving. Its a mix of Vinegar and salt (and dish soap).

Mix 2 litres of vinegar, half a cup of salt and 2 tablespoons of dish soap. Spray on the weeds (again, on a DRY day) and leave it to do its work. You may need to do this twice over the period of a couple of weeks, but it is quite effective. Vinegar contains acetic acid, which has well known herbicidal properties, and is commonly used by organic gardeners and farmers as a herbicide.


Q. Peter Brook. Kildare kildare.

"I have Marestail around my garden. I cant seen to get rid of it"?


Horsetail / Marestail (also mare's tail and mare's-tail) is a difficult one to kill. Again, you need a systemic weed killer, NOT A SPRAY. There are a few different ones out on the market for the last while that work well on this weed.

Either: Kurtail weed killer

 or

'Neudorff - Superfast and Long Lasting Weed Killer'

Kurtail weed killer in particualr has a great reputation in dealing with this.

 

Q. L. Dunne. Wicklow.

"I have an ivadsion of cranefly larva. What works best"?

You need a spray that will come in direct contact with them - this will work best. Again, I would recommend using an organic spray called 'Pyrethrum'. It works very well and should give you the results your looking for.

 

Q. JJ in Fermoy

"I have Vine weevil all over my Laurel hedge - how do I get rid of them without damaging the hedge?"

The 1st thing to do is to double check that it is Vine Weevil. Weevil is a little beetle, with a pointy nose, but is generally nocturnal. Its the grub of the beetle that does the damage, as when they hatch they tend to eat the roots. Normally you will find them on plants and shrubs such as Cyclamen or Primula flowers. They adore them. They seem to have a taste for the expensive!

There is no easy way. Usually you divide the plants / flowers from each other so that they wont spread, and remove the beetle from the affected plant BY HAND! They don't bite, so no worries. Once removed, make sure to gather them up and take them far away / kill them.

There is a treatment available called "Bug Clear Ultra Vine Weevil Killer". If removing them by hand is too much, it can be worth a try.

Also, for future reference, it would be a good idea to encourage natural enemies into your garden, such as birds, frogs, hedgehogs and other predatory ground beetles.

 

Q. Sean and Nancy in Offaly

"I have apple tree in my garden, but this year there is very few apples on the tree. Normally there are?"

Its possible that when the tree was pollinating, that is was too wet. Its important the tree gets to pollinate, otherwise you wont get apples - often, if its too wet outside, this can prohibit pollination.

Now, this wont be any good to you this year, but for next year (future reference), keep in mind that apples are rather greedy, and need lots of nutrition when the tree comes INTO BLOOM. So spread manure / compost etc at the base of the tree (MAKE SURE NOT TO have it touching the tree itself, as it can cause damage). Also, banana skins work well for this purpose (potassium).

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Garden pests | Greenfly - Slugs and snails - Midges - Cats!

 

Pests pests more garden pests!

Greenfly

You may notice, that in around late May or June there is a marked increase in pests in your garden. Its just their time of year alas! But how can you stop them from feeding on your flowers, plants or shrubs?

The most common garden pest is the green fly. You may have seen them congregate and feeding on the tips of your roses in the garden lately.

What they do: the greenfly feeds on the sap of the plant and can multiply rapidly. They damage any new growth and stunt the plant by drawing out the plants sap.

 

How to get rid of greenfly

There are a number of different ways in dealing with greenfly's, one of the best ways is use a safe organic spray called

  • Pyrethrum: has naturally occurring ingredients made from Chrysanthemum flower family. This can be very affective. One particular version of it is probably the oldest known pesticide, made from the dried flowers of a white daisy known as 'Tanacetum cinerariifolium'. Organic pyrethrum spray paralyses insects that come into contact with it and is the strongest insecticide allowed under National Organic Standards guidelines. In fact, if you feel creative, its one that you can make yourself! See here.

Also very good is

  • SB Plant Invigorator: which is a non-toxic dual purpose spray (also good for White fly, Aphid and Spider Mites). This mix kills the Greenfly, while at the same time gives nutrition to the plant itself. It wont affect Bees or Birds (which is always a great thing). It utilises a 'physical mode of action' that is non-chemical and non-biological. Pests do not become resistant.

 

Slugs and Snails

 

Q. Hannah, in Booterstown Dublin.

"Help! How do I combat slugs? My garden is riddled with them!"?

Ah - the age old question! There are Nematodes for slugs. You make them up in a watering can, they are a living organism and will only effect the slugs, and will do you no harm. You can get ones that specifically and solely target slugs. They are perfectly harmless to children, pets, and other wildlife, and pose no threat to food crops. In fact there are millions of them living quite happily in your garden right now. You can get them at any good garden centre and should help. Read more about Nematodes here.

Also, use the old half filled beer can buried in the garden trick. By using a can (and not a glass), the slugs can't climb back out of it as easily. The slugs will be drawn to the beer inside the can and end up drowning - but this will be an on going battle till the end of time alas! Top tip: Make sure to bury the can in your garden LEVEL with the ground. Make it easy for them to get it there!

 

Midges

A personal pet peeve of mine! They can be extremely annoying in the late evening (and often after a shower of rain on a hotter day, interesting). Unfortunately there is little that can be done with them. The only really effective way is to simply cover any exposed areas of flesh (think hats / face guards (like a bandanna) gloves / long sleeve tops etc).

Also worth mentioning is smoke. Like a lot of incests / animals, their instinct is to avoid smoke. This may not a very practical solution (or it may be - depends) , but, may be worth knowing none the less. I have tried it, and it does work.

 

Q. Fionn. Knocklyon.

"My garden pest is my lovely neighbours cat! She uses the flower beds as a litter tray. Any ideas"?

Get a dog!

Ah no - this can be a bone of contention amoung neighbors. Moth Balls can act as an excellent deterrent. Its not something that I have tried, but I have heard good reports in relation to this, so worth a go.

Top tip: Another approach is to set a plant known as 'Catmint' or Nepeta. Cats are drawn to this like magnets, so you could either set it in a hidden part of the garden, or better still, GIVE IT AS A GIFT to your neighbbour and let them set it in theirs! Problem sorted!

 

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Before we get in to June, now is a good time to talk about controlling pests within your garden. Click to read more | Dealing with Greenfly and Slugs

 

Q. P Ford. Joyce avenue - Foxrock.

"What are the best type of plants to grow in containers at the this time of year"?

Apt question, as this is the very time of year for growing in containers / finishing off plants. One that comes to mind is Camille's: They would be finishing flowering around now, but the new growth will have begun.

As the new growth starts, that is telling you where next years flowers will be. Its very important to get the plant evenly moist, not too dry, not too wet. The best way to ascertain this is to feel its weight. You will know by the weight of it in your hand.

As new growth begins, its a very good idea to give the plant its annual dose of sequestered iron plant tonic. This facilitates the absorption / boots the nutrition to the plant, exactly at the time that it needs it - which is now! (new shoots).

 

Q. JJ. Lawanswood Stillorgan.

"I am growing plants in pots, mainly shrubs and roses, but the leaves are starting to wither. Is there a treatment I can get?"

This is one of two things: The plant is dehydrated (i.e. not getting the nutrition it requires) or has been exposed to the wind and is scorched. It is more than likely simply not getting enough water.

A good idea is to mix tomato feed with water in a spray container (like one that you'll find underneath your sink. Just make sure its very well washed out etc), and spray some of that mix onto the soil. Then put the pot in a shallow bowl, and place water in the bowl. The plant will take up what it needs. Remove from the bowl after 24 hours say. If you repeat this process (not necessarily using the diluted tomato feed) twice a week during the summer / hotter months, your plants will thrive.

 

Q. Faith. Dublin D4.

"My tulips seem to have a lot more leaves this year. Will I cut them back, or what to do"?

Its important to let all the leaves die naturally - that way the energy will be transferred back into the plant. A good idea when planting tulips is to set them that bit deeper than recommended. So if the guide is 10cms, set them 20 or 25 instead. This will encourage new growth and new flowers to come back the following year.

Otherwise all the energy may go into developing new small bulb'lets, where as you want the energy going to the existing plant (unless of course you fancy having new bulbs). But you can avoid that by planting them a little bit deeper.

 

Q. Emer. Glencullen.

"Any advice on making compost? Good idea, or bad idea"?

Making your own compost can be a great idea. Like everything, there is a correct way to do it, and other not so correct ways! The general belief is to have a mix of 50% house waste and 50% garden clippings - which can work very well, AS LONG AS YOU USE THE CORRECT CONTAINER!

If using food waste, you need a bin with a secure lid. Otherwise, it will be attacked by rodents, have no doubt about it. The lid / top sides of the bin should have very small holes or slits for ventilation.

Try to build up your layers. Example, household waste (that DOES NOT INCLUDE MEAT), followed by a layer of grass clippings, layered with twigs or hedgerow clippings, then repeat the layers like this. Also, keep the compost bin sheltered, as you don't want rainwater seeping in and lodging at the bottom (very small holes at the bottom of the bin can be drilled in order to avoid this)

In relation to the household waste, try to avoid putting in MEAT etc. Think, vegetable peels, egg shells instead.


Q. Denis. Naas, Kildare.

"I have a 'hybrid tea rose' in my back garden. Its a wonderful plant and is in full vigour. The problem is, I'm moving to a new house in the next few weeks. Its planted and growing for approx 3+ years. Can I dig it up and move it with me"?

The bad news is no. As its well established, and in flower at this time of year, the likely hood is it would go into shock and not reestablish itself. However, there is a even nicer rose, with a fantastic scent and lovely yellow flower called 'Graham Thomas'. If you plant it in your new house, you should have flowers this year, and it will get better and better each year after that.


Top tip: Here is a list of fantastic 'fragrant climbing roses', that are ready for planting now.

Albertine rose: A lovely Cooper pink coloured rose with double flowers, very scented.

New dawn rose: Wonderful pink coloured, full double flowered rose. Very easy to grow, and carries lots of flowers.

Iceberg rose: has a classic white flower, normally a bush plant, but you can get it in climbing form as well.

Maigold rose: Really beautiful flowers. Has a rich deep yellow colour - Flowers quite early (in May). Big scent.

Zephirine drouhin rose: Deep pink colour. No thorns whatsoever, and wonderful large flower heads.

Etoile de Hollande: and if your looking for a classic red rose, look at one called 'Etoile de Hollande'. Has a very deep red colour with good sized flowers.

These are all great climbing roses, and are ready for planting NOW!

 

Q. Becky Daley. Wicklow, Wicklow.

"I have a Montana clematis. Its becoming overgrown. Is this a good time to cut it back to the wood, or would I kill it"?

Yes - you can cut it back, but don't over do it, as if you go too close to the wood, you could shock it. Take off the heavy growth and thin it out. You can cut back fairly heavy if you want, just not too close to the wood.

 

Q. B.C Borne. Tallagh, Dublin.

"I have a Victoria plum tree. Its become top heavy over the last while. Can I cut it back, if so, what is the best method to use"?

Yes, cutting it back now should be no problem. But go gentle on it.

Top tip: If you give it a high potassium feed, this will help SLOW the growth, as the energy will go into producing flowers and more fruit etc for next year. This applies to all flower / fruit bearing plants / shrubs / trees.

 

Q. Andrew. Synge street Dublin 8.

"I got an oak tree about three years ago in a pot. I planted it in my back garden in a good spot, but, I seem to have more of a oak bush than a tree! It just seems to be spreading out, as opposed to actually growing. What can I do"?

The 1st ting to do is take the bottom branches off it. Thin it out. And this is a good time of year for doing it. That way, the energy will go into the stem of the tree and will facilitate growth, not bushing.

2nd, you should LOOSELY tie it to a stake, with will guide it in its growth. But do it loosely.

 

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